Keller Estate, Brut Rose, NV

Deep in the fog-swept hills of the Petaluma Gap, where cold Pacific air funnels in off San Pablo Bay every afternoon, the Keller family have been quietly doing something brilliant. We got wind of this allocation before anyone sensible had a chance, moved fast, and here we are — KELLER ESTATE BRUT ROSÉ NV, yours before the rest of the world catches on. ​ Ana Keller's wind-battered Sonoma Coast estate coaxes a tensile, nervy quality from its Pinot Noir that warmer-climate bubbles simply cannot replicate. Traditional method, patient lees ageing, proper Californian ambition with very un-Californian restraint. Decades of family graft poured into every bottle. ​ Pale salmon, fine persistent bead, wild strawberry, white peach and brioche on the nose; blood orange, crushed raspberry, chalky minerality, and a citrus-zipped finish that simply will not quit.